Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Mad Ludwig's Castles


Today we said goodbye to Munich and set off on the first of our train excursions - this one to Füssen - (not before tucking into some good Hauptbahnhof curry wurst for breakfast..ooo yes, yum yum says Chris!!) and on to Hohenschwangau to visit the two summer castles of Ludwig 11 of Bavaria. We stowed our luggage in the luggage lockers at Munich Hauptbahnhof and took only an overnight bag up the mountain, since we were going for just one night.


I am excited to be going by train, and to be leaving the city behind for the countryside and the mountains. We change trains @ Buchloe, and soon after this, that magnificent snowy capped mountain scenery comes into view. Füssen greets us with a very pretty yellow station building and gorgeous snow capped mountains in the near distance. We find our bus and it's a short drive to Hohenschwangau where Megs et al are waiting for us... and I had my first glimpse of Neuschwanstein castle. I have to say, on first sight I was a little disappointed .. there over in the distance ( above my head, nestled halfway up the mountain, was a little speck purporting to be a castle, can you see??). .. and not a snow cap in sight. Where have they gone?? Never mind, Christopher drives us up to our mad little hotel right up under the castle and up close , it's looking far more promising. Baz is particularly taken with it, and loves our mad little hotel. He organises us into rooms, then we walk back down the mountain and visit Hohenschwangau.
This was the summer holiday house of the Mad King Ludwig's parents. We climb up some steepish steps and wait for our turn to go in.. Our guide takes us through the rooms..,much of which i can't remember!!, but I do remember the enormous dining room table covered with enormous brass centrepieces that were presents for various birthdays etc. There was much talk of various rooms being decorated and painted to complement various Wagnerian operas, and a piano brought in for Wagner's use in his guest quarters. Mad King L and Wagner were very good friends..Apparently Ludwig was quite obsessed with Wagnerian operas and play acting in general and was Wagner's "patron". We saw the bedrooms..with their strange little single beds pushed against the wall and the castle heating system of stoves fed through narrow corridors in the walls which the servants had to climb through. Finally, we descended the stairs from the top floor of the castle (thankful we weren't servants who would have had to climb up and down the steep spiral staircases many times a day), in to a little courtyard with a little garden , a strange swan fountain and a view across the valley to Neuschwanstein on the mountain opposite.
From here, it was back into the tiny village of Schwangau where we had a quick look at the beautiful lake..Alpensee.
. and the caught a horse drawn carriage up hill to visit Neuschwanstein.



..Another tour,(the views from Neuschwanstein down to the village and lake Alpensee beneath are breathtaking!! ..the highlight of the castle tour!!), and another set of rooms with wall paintings in homage to Wagnerian works. Neuschwanstein is quite different externally from Hohenscwangau - all fairytale and prettiness. The most fascinating thing about these two castles has been the insight into Ludwig who nearly bankrupted the country building his castle and becoming a recluse. He was then subsequently certified insane by the government of the day and was found drowned in a lake the very next day..such a sad and ignoble ending for a royal prince.:(

After the tour we brave the arctic winds and walk up the hill to Marienbrücke for the glorious view down to the castle and the countryside beneath. (The bridge is very high over a gorge..there is a very strong wind and it is all bit scary! and freezing cold, but well worth it for the view!!..and lots of photos and selfies with a castle in the background!!

..

So, after the castles, we have a well earned rest and recuperation. .. it's freezing and Barry has taken to bed with a flu.
The rest of us go downtown for our last dinner together
.. - it's a lovely warm little spot with friendly helpful staff who prepare a takeaway for Barry who's back in bed. We have a good meal ( more meat and potatoes!! and some beer .).. before heading back to sleep in our funny little hotel under the castle turrets!

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home